Russian Mountain Guide Association – ACMG/IFMGA Training Program Program Report- Updated July 19  

Background The Russian Mountain Guide Association (RMGA) contacted the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides in May of 2010 inquiring about assistance in creating a training program that would meet the requirements of the International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA).  

The RMGA wished to adopt the ACMG’s ‘specialty guide’ training program and the Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA) Industry Training Program for the following reasons: • The guiding industry in Russia is similar to Canada in that there is a strong ski guiding industry and a busy alpine guiding industry on Mount Elbrus however; only a small number of active guides are working in both industries. • Russia does not have a reliable avalanche danger forecasting system and therefore their avalanche training program had to focus on their ability to forecast avalanche danger with limited outside information. The RMGA has a functioning Board of Directors and is strongly supported both administratively and logistically by the Russian Mountaineering Federation.  There is also a high level of support from the guiding industry with owners and employees from Russia’s largest heli-skiing and alpine guiding companies being enrolled in the program.   

Partnerships - Technical • The Association of Canadian Mountain Guides – Instructors and administration • Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program (CMSG) at Thompson Rivers University (TRU) – Course materials • Canadian Avalanche Association – Instructors and materials  

Partnerships – Financial • Gore-Tex • Petzl • RedFox Students pay approximately 30% of their course fees.               

Logistical Program Details  

Course Logistics Decisions about course locations, scheduling and content are made by Marc Piché (ACMG Technical Director) and Fedor Farberov (RMGA Technical Director) with consultation from Roma Bryk (RMGA Executive Director) and Keith Reid (ACMG President)  

Course Costs This program is inherently very costly and many efforts are made to keep the courses and entire program cost effective without compromising safety or quality. • When possible, two courses are scheduled back to back to reduce instructor airfare. • Most courses are run with a slightly higher student to instructor ratio to reduce the total number of instructors needed.  This has been balanced by making the courses one or two days longer to ensure the students spend enough time with instructors. • Instructors are paid $350 CDN per day including travel time.  All expenses are covered by the RMGA. • The ACMG Technical Director is compensated by the ACMG for 20 hours of administrative work towards this program per year.  This accounts for roughly one- third to one-quarter of the total time dedicated to this project per year. • The ACMG also covers time spent by the ACMG Admin team in dealing with invoicing and producing contracts between the ACMG, its instructors and the RMGA. • CAA courses are run on a similar cost structure however an admin fee is added.  

Record Keeping Students have been given written feedback, including recommendations for future courses and training strategies after each course.  Course reports have been created after most courses and include suggestions for subsequent course locations, agenda and structure.   

Instructor Selection Instructors are selected based on their experience and familiarity with the CMSG version of the courses to be delivered.  Preference is given to instructors with a broad experience base of working in all streams of the CMSG program.  In addition to these criteria, guide- training courses that run consecutively to CAA avalanche courses require instructors who are familiar and experienced with both programs.   

When practical, instructors from other IFMGA countries will be used in an effort to introduce a variety of techniques and ideas.  To date, this has only been possible on one course in ski touring course in Austria. 

Program Overview In a specialty guide program, students have the option of becoming ski guides or alpine (climbing) guides- students who successfully complete both programs become ‘mountain guides’.  The association controls the work activities of specialty guides by holding them to strict terrain guidelines (Scope of Practice).  

Mountain Guide Overview: Mountain Guides have /completed both the Alpine Guide certification and Ski Guide certification. They are qualified to work unsupervised in all mountain terrain within their personal experience and skill level.  

Ski Guide Overview: Qualified to instruct and guide backcountry skiing and snowboarding in all mountain terrain in winter/spring snow conditions, within their personal experience and skill level.  

Alpine Guide Overview: Alpine Guides are qualified to instruct and guide climbing and other mountain travel activities on rock, ice, snow, mixed and alpine climbs within their personal experience and skill level.  

Apprentice Guides: Both Apprentice Ski Guides and Apprentice Alpine Guides may work in the terrain described above but they must do so under the supervision of a qualified guide.   

Course Descriptions – Ski Program  

Guide Training Skiing- Alpine Skills GTS-AS is a training course for candidates not enrolled in the Alpine Guide Program. The focus of the course is on technical rope skills, roping up for glacier travel, crevasse rescue, belays, anchors, rappelling. The course is run in a glaciated alpine area.  

Guide Training Skiing- Touring 1 (GTS-T) focuses on general ski touring skills. Candidates are coached on track setting in all terrain types, decision-making, snowpack evaluation, navigation, client care and other skills specific to ski touring guiding. Guide Training Skiing- Ski Mountaineering (GTS-SM) focuses on classic ski mountaineering. Candidates are coached on track setting in all terrain types, roped glacier travel, decision-making, snowpack evaluation, navigation, client care, short-roping and other skills specific to ski touring guiding.  

Apprentice Ski Guide Exam (ASG-E) includes six days of field assessment as well as one day of technical skills assessment. Successful candidates are able to guide under supervision according to the terrain and supervision guidelines.  

Ski Guide Exam (SG-E) is includes six days of field assessment and one day of technical skills assessment. Candidates must have been an apprentice guide for a minimum of one year and a maximum of three years and have gained a prerequisite amount of supervised experience before challenging this exam. Successful candidates must continue to work within the terrain guidelines but no longer have supervision guidelines.  

Course Descriptions – Alpine Program  

Guide Training Rock (GTR) focuses on the technical skills necessary for instruction and guiding of rock climbing. This includes all rope-handling skills, anchor construction, belays, rappels, rock rescue, risk management, introductory short roping, guiding multi- pitch rock climbs and other skills. On this course there is also a screening (entrance exam) for rock climbing movement skills.  

Guide Training Alpine (GTA) focuses on the necessary skills for general mountaineering and technical climbing in alpine terrain. This includes navigation, protection, belays, short-roping, route-finding, decision-making, client care and all other skills specific to guiding alpine terrain. On this course there is also a screening (entrance exam) for rock climbing movement skills wearing mountain boots and movement skills while wearing crampons.  

Apprentice Alpine Guide Exam (AAG-E) consists of a minimum of six days of field assessment, and a minimum of one day of technical skills assessment. Successful candidates are able to guide under supervision according to the training and supervision guidelines.  

Alpine Guide Exam (AG-E) includes a minimum of six days of field assessment, and a minimum of one day of technical skills assessment. Successful candidates must continue to work within the ACMG terrain guidelines but no longer need to work under supervision.  

Course Descriptions – Avalanche Program  

Canadian Avalanche Association Level I (CAA L1) industry training course consists of 8 days of technical training on the standard for avalanche workers in Canada. The program focuses on recognition of avalanche terrain, search and rescue, collecting and recording weather and snowpack observations, operational risk management and decision-making and snow stability evaluation. 

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